The Rolex Submariner is more than just a dive watch—it’s a timeless icon that has defined luxury and precision for over half a century. Known for its robust design, unmatched quality, and iconic status, the Submariner has graced the wrists of divers, celebrities, and collectors alike. Whether you’re a seasoned enthusiast or just beginning your horological journey, knowing which models stand out is essential. Here are the top 10 Rolex Submariner models every collector should know.
1. Rolex Submariner Ref. 6204 – The First Submariner (1953)
Launched in 1953, the reference 6204 is the very first Submariner. It featured a minimalist design with pencil-style hands, a black rotating bezel, and no crown guards. With water resistance up to 100 meters, this model laid the foundation for all future Submariners. It’s a rare collector’s piece today and a true piece of horological history.
2. Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 – The James Bond Watch
Known famously as the “James Bond Submariner,” the Ref. 6538 was worn by Sean Connery in early Bond films like Dr. No. With its oversized crown and no crown guards, it boasts vintage charm and undeniable cinematic appeal. This model is a grail watch for both Rolex collectors and movie buffs.
3. Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 – The Professional Diver’s Watch
Introduced in 1959, the Ref. 5512 brought significant updates including crown guards and a more robust case. Unlike its close sibling, the Ref. 5513, the 5512 was COSC-certified, making it particularly desirable among collectors. Its vintage appeal and technical pedigree make it a must-know reference.
4. Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 – The Iconic Everyman’s Sub
Often mistaken for the 5512, the Ref. 5513 was produced for over 25 years, from 1962 to 1989. It lacked COSC certification, but that didn’t affect its popularity. With countless dial variations, including the beloved “maxi dials,” the 5513 offers depth and variety for vintage collectors.
5. Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 – The First with a Date
Released in the late 1960s, the Ref. 1680 was the first Submariner to feature a date complication and the now-iconic Cyclops magnification lens. Early versions came with the rare “Red Sub” dial, named for the red “Submariner” text—highly sought after in the vintage market.
6. Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610 – The Modern Classic
Produced from 1988 to 2010, the Ref. 16610 is one of the most recognized Submariners. It introduced a sapphire crystal and updated movement while retaining the traditional aluminum bezel insert. This reference straddles the line between vintage charm and modern reliability, making it a staple in many collections.
7. Rolex Submariner Ref. 116610LN – The Ceramic Bezel Era
In 2010, Rolex updated the Submariner Date with the Ref. 116610LN. Featuring a Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel insert and “Super Case” with broader lugs, it marked a new era in durability and design. It remains a favorite among modern collectors for its blend of ruggedness and elegance.
8. Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060 – The No-Date Modern Sub
For purists, the Ref. 114060 is a dream come true. Introduced in 2012 and discontinued in 2020, this no-date Submariner embraced symmetry and simplicity. It featured all the modern upgrades—ceramic bezel, Glidelock clasp, and improved movement—without the distraction of a date window.
9. Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LV – The New “Kermit”
Launched in 2020, the Ref. 126610LV brought back the green bezel, reminiscent of the original “Kermit” (Ref. 16610LV). With slimmer lugs and a new-generation caliber 3235 movement, this model combines vintage inspiration with cutting-edge technology.
10. Rolex Submariner Ref. 6536/1 – The Understated Vintage Gem
Often overshadowed by the more famous 6538, the Ref. 6536/1 is a charming and slightly smaller vintage Submariner. With a slimmer profile and classic gilt dial, it offers an understated yet elegant alternative for those who love early Submariners with a refined edge.
Final Thoughts
From pioneering dive watches to modern marvels, the Rolex Submariner has remained at the pinnacle of horology. Each reference tells a unique story and offers something special to collectors. Whether you’re captivated by vintage models or drawn to contemporary innovations, the Submariner lineup offers a legacy that continues to evolve—making it a cornerstone of any serious watch collection.
