Choosing the right men’s shirt goes beyond just style and fit—it’s about quality. A well-made shirt not only looks better but lasts longer, feels comfortable, and maintains its shape wash after wash. But how do you tell if a men’s shirt is truly high quality? Here’s a detailed guide on what to look for, focusing on fabric and stitching.
Understanding Fabric Quality
1. Fabric Type Matters
High-quality shirts are typically made from natural fibers like cotton, linen, or silk. Cotton, especially long-staple varieties such as Egyptian or Pima cotton, offers softness, breathability, and durability. Linen provides excellent airflow for warmer climates, while silk adds a luxurious feel and sheen. Avoid shirts made primarily from low-grade synthetic fibers, which tend to pill, stretch out, or trap heat.
2. Thread Count and Weave
Look for shirts with a higher thread count (generally above 80 for dress shirts). Higher thread count fabrics are smoother and stronger. Common weaves include poplin (smooth and crisp), twill (soft and durable with diagonal patterns), and oxford (thicker and textured). Each has its own feel and function, but all can be high quality if woven tightly and consistently.
3. Weight and Feel
A quality shirt feels substantial but not heavy. Thin, flimsy fabric usually indicates lower quality, while overly thick material can be stiff and uncomfortable. Run your hand over the fabric to check for softness and resilience. Quality fabrics should have a smooth finish and slight elasticity without feeling synthetic.
Inspecting Stitching Details
1. Stitch Density
Count the stitches per inch (SPI) if possible. High-quality shirts generally have around 14-18 stitches per inch. More stitches per inch mean tighter seams, which are stronger and less likely to unravel. Loose stitching or gaps signal poor craftsmanship.
2. Seam Quality and Finish
Check seams inside and outside the shirt. Well-made shirts have flat-felled or French seams that prevent fraying and add durability. Look for evenly spaced stitches with no loose threads or puckering fabric.
3. Button Attachment
Buttons should be sewn on securely with a cross or shank stitch, allowing slight movement without loosening. Higher-end shirts often use mother-of-pearl or genuine shell buttons, which are stronger and more elegant than plastic alternatives.
4. Collar and Cuffs
Inspect the collar and cuffs carefully. These areas endure the most wear, so quality shirts reinforce them with extra stitching or interfacing. The collar should keep its shape and feel sturdy but not stiff. Well-made cuffs will have clean buttonholes and symmetrical stitching.
Additional Tips for Spotting Quality
- Check Labels: Look for detailed fabric information and country of origin. Shirts made in countries known for textile craftsmanship (Italy, Japan, UK) often indicate higher quality.
- Fit and Cut: A quality shirt will have a thoughtful cut with balanced proportions, even if you don’t try it on immediately.
- Price Point: While not a sole indicator, very cheap shirts are rarely made with top-tier materials or construction.
Conclusion
Spotting a high-quality men’s shirt comes down to a keen eye for fabric and stitching. Natural, tightly woven fabrics paired with dense, neat stitching and durable finishes guarantee a shirt that looks sharp and lasts longer. Next time you shop for men’s shirts, use these tips to make an informed choice—your wardrobe and your comfort will thank you.
